Wednesday, April 30, 2008


Went to the gym in the afternoon.

Lifted weights - two sets each (I didn't have much time)

Bench press
One-arm dead lift
Butter flies

I reduced the weight on some exercises so that I could do more reps. I think it was a good idea and one i'll still with for a while.

Tuesday, April 29, 2008


Let's see if I can recap the last several days. It is now Monday, last Friday T and I drove down to Joe's Valley for the 2nd annual Jami birthday super climbing weekend.

We started by climbing at the Big Joe area. I warmed up on a couple of V1s and then did a V4, all on the Scary Monsters boulder.

I then did Scary Monsters - v6. It took me several tries, though it should have only taken two. I wasn't feeling very well.

We then fished for a bit and ran into some friends. We climbed with them at the Riverside. I did a couple of v0 and v2 problems, along with Kelly's Arete, v5. I didn't want to climb very hard since I was planning to try my project the next day.

Saturday, along with a group of friends we went to the Mining Cart. We did all the problems on there; v0, v2, v3, v3, v4. Across the street from there I sent Kill By Numbers, v5. Then we went over to Worst Case Scenario, v9. It took me several tries along with Steve to figure out some new beta to get us into the crux move. And then I blew a tip. I was pretty much done at that point. It was a good weekend.

Yesterday I went back up LCC to the Banjo boulders. I did two v1s and that is about it. I did warm up at the SG, but I won't go over that. It was really warm outside.

Wednesday, April 23, 2008


2.5 mile run at the gym.

A short session up rainy LCC. Did a new v2 and v0 before it got too wet to climb.

Tuesday, April 22, 2008



Climbed for about an hour. Nothing hard. Problems up to V5

Lifted weights (3 sets each)
One arm dead lift

Core workout was tough today.


2.75 mile run during my lunch.

After work I went up LCC and explored some new problems I hadn't done before. Climbed the following:

It was an easy day, but I did 4 new problems I hadn't done before, so it was worth it.

Monday, April 21, 2008


I went back up LCC. I didn't run today as I still want to give my foot a rest before pushing it again.

I didn't climb hard up LCC as it was my 4th day on and I wanted simply to try new stuff.

I first went to the Unnamed boulders to the east of the Tower boulders at the Secret Garden. The book was vague on how to do two of the three problems and outright inaccurate on how to start the V6. I didn't even try it. It was hot and I wasn't up for trying hard. I did do the V1 and gave the scary V3 a try, but the hard mantle move was pretty high up and all I had was my circuit pad and no spotter, so I backed off. I then walked up the hill to another obscure boulder.

This boulder had a terrifying V3 slab that started 6 ft off the ground. I passed on it for obvious reasons. There was a beautiful V1 (more like V0) arete that was a bit scary as the landing was death. I even backed off it once, but fired it without any problems the second try. The v4 straight up that wall looked brilliant, but again, with such a poor landing and a tiny pad, I decided it was better to pass. There was supposed to be a v2 offwidth on the back side of the boulder, but there was no crack to be seen. So I went back down to the Tower boulders to fire off three of the remaining problems I haven't done down there; V0, V2, and V4 respectively.

I finished with a lap on Twisted, as I haven't done it in ages and a few more laps on the warm-up boulder and I went home. I don't think I was up there an hour. What a great day.

Friday, April 18, 2008


I took a little afternoon session up LCC. What a great day. I've been focusing on new problems. Most of these are on the extremely easy side.
I went to the Cabbage Patch. To the left of the dyno boulder there is a V3 and V5. Both felt at least a grade easier.

Beyond the dyno boulder there is a hidden gem. On the back side there are two V1 slabs that are gorgeous. On the east side there is an arete that has been undone. On the right, pinch the arete with your left hand and grab a gaston with your right; paste your right foot on and then jump for the ledge. Mantle that and then jump again (very scary) to the top and mantle. This is apparently undone. Not any more. I don't know how hard it is, but if it is a FA that would be excellent.
On the left of the arete is a true project. A beautiful slab with OK feet and no real holds until about 10 feet. This may be a project for the fall.

5 new problems. What a great day!

Thursday, April 17, 2008


6:30 am

Climbed for an hour. Nothing major. Three days on is hard.

Lifted weights - 2 sets each
One arm dead lift.

no core. not feeling it today.

hoping to climb outside later

Wednesday, April 16, 2008


I didn't run today since I hurt my foot on Sunday and then was dumb enough to run on it Monday. So I just went to boulder for a while.
Climbed problems up to V6ish. It's hard to tell because I'm not good at rating gym problems, in the same manner as I am not good at climbing gym problems. I got to climb at least. After today the weather should be good enough to take my climbing time outside. Hurray.


6:30 am - gym (soon to be Dawn Patrol outside)
Climbed for about an hour
V1 - V6

Lifted weights (3 sets each)
One arm dead lift

Core workout


I ran 2.5 miles
Fingerboard workout. Nothing hard

Saturday, April 12, 2008


Of course, after I said I wasn't going to do anything I did end up going outside for a very short time. T was with me so we just went to the Island II boulders at the Secret Garden. I did a bunch of V1s and V2s as a warm-up and then ended up having to leave.

Friday, April 11, 2008


I'm finally fighting off this cold. I will start fresh on Monday.

Wednesday, April 9, 2008


Nothing today.

I'm fighting a cold and didn't want to push it by running and then going out in the cold.

I plan to lift in the morning, but not climb. I may try to climb during my lunch if I'm feeling better.

Tuesday, April 8, 2008


Gym - 6:30am
No routes today, just bouldering. I don't know what the grades of anything are as they pretty much have stopped grading most things. I imagine I did several problems in the V1 - V3 range. Then I worked on a (what I think) V6 for a while. I got it in the end. I think I made it much harder than I should have.

Lifted weights.
Bench press - 3 sets - 115 lbs (17, 13, 10 reps)
Dumbell Curls - 3 sets - 30 lbs dumbells (1o reps each)
One arm dead lift (?) - 3 sets - 50 lbs dumbell (1o reps each arm)
Butterflies - 3 sets - 20 lbs dumbells (1o reps each)

Core workout - 30 sec. at each station.

Monday, April 7, 2008


2.5 mile run
8 minute fingerboard workout
  • two exercises per minute
  • mix of pull-ups and dead hangs